Chocolate Ermine “Pudding” Buttercream Recipe on Food52 (2024)

American

by: Erin Jeanne McDowell

July3,2021

3

4 Ratings

  • Prep time 5 minutes
  • Cook time 5 minutes
  • makes 4 cups (enough to fill and frost one 8- or 9-inch cake (up to 3 layers) or 24 cupcakes

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Author Notes

I used to call this “pudding buttercream” before I knew it’s true name: ermine. This technique involves preparing a simple pudding-style custard base, then whipping butter into it to create the final frosting. This method has become one of my go-tos, because it allows for a really creamy frosting that’s thick and pipable, but also not too sweet. Be sure to let the pudding base cool to room temperature before whipping in the butter, but don’t be tempted to refrigerate it to speed it up. If it gets even a bit cold, it will make the frosting likely to split. If you’re in a hurry, pour the pudding onto a baking sheet—the greater surface area will allow it to cool much faster. —Erin Jeanne McDowell

Test Kitchen Notes

Bake It Up a Notch is a column by Resident Baking BFF Erin Jeanne McDowell. Each month, she'll help take our baking game to the next level, teaching us all the need-to-know tips and techniques and showing us all the mistakes we might make along the way. Today, a very sweet lesson in all things frostings, icings, and glazes. —The Editors

  • Test Kitchen-Approved

What You'll Need

Watch This Recipe

Chocolate Ermine “Pudding”Buttercream

Ingredients
  • 1 3/4 cups(398 grams) granulated sugar
  • 3/4 cup(90 grams) all purpose flour
  • 1/3 cup(28 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 1 teaspoon(5 grams) instant espresso powder (optional)
  • 1/2 teaspoon(2 grams) fine sea salt
  • 2 cups(460 grams) whole milk
  • 1 pound(454 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1 tablespoon(15 grams) vanilla extract
Directions
  1. In a medium pot, whisk the granulated sugar, flour, cocoa powder, espresso powder (if using), and salt. Whisk in the milk.
  2. Begin to heat the mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and becomes pudding like, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a heat-safe storage container, cover directly with plastic wrap, and let cool to room temperature.
  3. Place the butter in the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whip on medium-high speed until the mixture is light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. With the mixer running, add the room temperature pudding mixture 1 heaping tablespoon (about 25 grams) at a time, mixing until each is fully incorporated before adding the next.
  4. Once all of the pudding base is incorporated, add the vanilla extract and mix to combine.

Tags:

  • American
  • Dessert

See what other Food52ers are saying.

  • rearaerich

  • avyb

  • Chris

  • pattycakes

Recipe by: Erin Jeanne McDowell

I always have three kinds of hot sauce in my purse. I have a soft spot for making people their favorite dessert, especially if it's wrapped in a pastry crust. My newest cookbook, Savory Baking, came out in Fall of 2022 - is full of recipes to translate a love of baking into recipes for breakfast, dinner, and everything in between!

Popular on Food52

4 Reviews

rearaerich October 11, 2022

I tried this ratio and ended up with a soupy mess. Shouldn't 2 cups of milk and close to 2 cups of sugar reqire more like 2 lbs of butter for the right ratio and consistency? It could have been me, but I wasted sell that time and money for nothing, I had to start over with a more familiar recipe, winging the chocolate part. Not my usual best work. It made delivery of the cake late!! My own fault, I guess. Need to stick to familiar when pressed for time.

avyb January 23, 2022

Made this frosting to put on a banana cake. One of the best frosting I have made! Not too sweet, airy, and absolutely delicious. Will definitely be making this again. I used instant coffee instead of espresso powder - next time I would use a little less since the coffee flavor was more forward than I wanted.

Chris August 1, 2021

Professional baker here—1 3/4 C sugar is not 398g (that would be closer to 2 cups). The actual weight is closer to 350g. I always follow recipes as written the first time through, and I found this frosting to be unpalatably sweet. I add 2/3 C more of Dutch processed cocoa powder to temper the sweetness. Five grams of espresso powder is also too much and makes the frosting taste like coffee.

Two grams is enough to enhance the flavor of the chocolate without adding a pronounced coffee flavor.

Finally, I've never made a flour-thickened pudding that took only 2-3 minutes to thicken. This took 5-6 minutes on medium heat. You have no go by texture, not time.

If the editor fixes the instructions, I don't doubt the frosting will be delicious. The texture is fantastic.

pattycakes June 17, 2021

I can't wait to try it and see how it differs in taste from the way I've been making it. My ermine frosting is very popular, but it's made so differently (& I have a feeling it's wrong lol). I've just been cooking the milk & flour until a thick paste (it cools & plops into the butter almost like gelatin), & creaming the butter & sugar - all with a paddle attachment and beating med/ high for 10 min. Idk how it turns out so good lol, but i bet your's is better. I'm trying it today!

Chocolate Ermine “Pudding” Buttercream Recipe on Food52 (2024)

FAQs

What is the difference between buttercream frosting and Ermine frosting? ›

How does ermine frosting differ from other frostings? Unlike Italian and French buttercreams, which are made with eggs (whites only in the case of Italian, whole eggs in the case of French) and sugar syrup, ermine frosting is egg-free, and it eliminates the fussy step of streaming hot syrup into a running mixer.

Why is my Ermine buttercream not smooth? ›

Pain Points of a flour-based Buttercream.

If you've completed the recipe and your mix still looks a little lumpy or grainy, mix a bit more until it becomes smooth. You can over-whip it, though so watch for that. Overwhipping can cause the butter to soften too much; to avoid that chill it in the fridge.

Is Ermine buttercream shelf stable? ›

For stability purposes, especially if the ambient temperature is rather warm, American buttercream or ermine frosting, or the half buttercream/half chocolate (as suggested above) are all great choices that will hold their shape and have no risk of spoilage for many hours or even days.

How do you thicken Ermine buttercream? ›

Add flour paste

Add the flour paste to the whipped butter, and using the whisk attachment, whisk on low speed until all the paste has been added (4b). After that, whisk on high speed until it comes together and thickens slightly as the butter takes in the flour paste, 1-5 minutes.

What are the pros and cons of Ermine buttercream? ›

A bit more time than American Buttercream, but still fairly easy to make. Pros: Doesn't involve the use of a candy thermometer or eggs. Cons: Uses flour, so not gluten free. Can be very soft, and doesn't hold up well to piping decorations, and heat.

Why is my ermine frosting grainy? ›

Others call for cooking the flour and milk together with the sugar, then whipping the cooled paste with butter. The former yields the best flavor and body, but frosting made this way often contains a trace of grit from undissolved sugar crystals.

How do you fix broken Ermine buttercream? ›

My Ermine Buttercream is curdled:

Keep whipping a little bit, and it might come together. If it's still not come together, all you have to do is warm it up a bit: – Place the bowl briefly over a pot with simmering water. – Some people warm the sides of the bowl with a hairdryer.

Is Ermine buttercream good for piping? ›

Enter ermine buttercream. While it takes a little more time and prep work, it uses no powdered sugar and far less regular granulated sugar. It also works great for piping and can be colored just like any other buttercream. Another great thing about ermine frosting is that it doesn't use eggs like meringue frostings.

What does Ermine Buttercream taste like? ›

Ermine Buttercream

The texture and flavor are light and fluffy, with a mild sweetness and buttery flavor. Interestingly, although it seems more lightweight, it is also one of the strongest in temperature and pressure stability out of all the buttercreams I tested in this article.

Why is it called ermine frosting? ›

The name of the frosting might refer to its silky-smooth texture, which feels as luxurious as the pelt of an ermine, a species of weasel known for its soft white fur. Since ermine frosting doesn't use eggs and contains less butter and sugar than most other frostings, it was an economical alternative to other frostings.

Is Ermine Buttercream the same as whipped cream? ›

Ermine frosting is a light and fluffy buttercream that is similar in texture and flavor of whipped cream and but is sweeter and more stable like Swiss meringue buttercream. Ermine frosting has no eggs and makes for a really good whipped cream alternative for cakes.

Can you add food coloring to ermine frosting? ›

Scrape down the sides and mix on medium speed until the buttercream is light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vanilla and food coloring, if using, and mix on low speed until combined.

Does icing sugar make buttercream thicker? ›

How to Make Buttercream Thicker Using Powdered Sugar. The easiest and most straightforward way to fix buttercream that is too runny is to simply add more powdered sugar. I always work with an American Buttercream recipe for this reason.

Why add cornstarch to buttercream frosting? ›

While it works best as a thickener when heated, The Spruce Eats explains cornstarch will absorb some moisture even if you don't bake or cook it in your recipe. The additive can help stabilize buttercream frosting in the heat and humidity — and no one wants a dripping cake at a summer outdoor party.

Is ermine frosting better than American buttercream? ›

It's not as sweet as American buttercream, but it isn't light and airy like meringue buttercream. The great thing about Ermine Frosting is that it is more stable than American buttercream, but you don't have to mess with eggs like the European versions.

What does Ermine buttercream taste like? ›

What Does Ermine Frosting Taste Like? Despite seeming very odd and maybe even off-putting, ermine buttercream is silky smooth and quite light. It reminds be a lot of Swiss Meringue Buttercream. It doesn't taste at all like flour and has nice vanilla flavor.

Why is it called Ermine buttercream? ›

The name of the frosting might refer to its silky-smooth texture, which feels as luxurious as the pelt of an ermine, a species of weasel known for its soft white fur. Since ermine frosting doesn't use eggs and contains less butter and sugar than most other frostings, it was an economical alternative to other frostings.

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